Givaudan unveils premium silicone-free sensory emollient

SWITZERLAND – Givaudan has introduced SensoTrue DM5, a bio-based emollient created through white biotechnology and green chemistry as an alternative to 5 cSt dimethicone, also known as DM5 silicone. 

The ingredient combines premium sensory performance with a substantially improved environmental profile, offering the luxurious feel consumers associate with silicones while helping beauty brands move toward more sustainable formulations.

SensoTrue DM5 is an innovative emollient complex made from renewable sugarcane and upcycled pine terpenes. 

Fabrice Lefèvre, Givaudan’s innovation and marketing director, said, “SensoTrue DM5 demonstrates how biotechnology can open up new possibilities for high performance, naturally derived hair care ingredients.”

“By combining renewable resources, green chemistry and advanced molecular design, we are enabling brands to meet consumer expectations for a premium hair care experience, without compromising on their environmental commitments.”

Its distinctive multi-molecular alkane structure, together with complementary polymeric emollients, works on three complementary levels.

First, low-molecular-weight volatile alkanes imitate cyclopentasiloxane by spreading evenly over the hair and then evaporating cleanly, producing smooth, uniform coverage without leaving residue. 

Second, mid-molecular-weight non-volatile alkanes penetrate the hair cortex to provide lasting hydration and reinforce the hair fibre from within. 

Third, high-molecular-weight polymeric emollients create a light, flexible film that smooths the cuticle, lowers friction, and controls frizz, delivering silicone-like conditioning without product build-up.

According to Givaudan, these performance claims are supported by instrumental testing. 

Senior category manager Ricky Ho said SensoTrue DM5 delivers a significant improvement in hair performance, reducing wet combing force by 60%, frizz by 24%, and flyaway by 42%. 

He added that the ingredient outperformed both 5 cSt dimethicone and D5 across all three measures.

Consumer testing also supported the laboratory findings. More than 85% of women noticed visible effectiveness after a single application, up to 88% felt their hair was healthier after ten days, and up to 92% reported high satisfaction with the SensoTrue DM5 routine.

SensoTrue DM5 can be used in shampoos, conditioners, hair masks, leave-in treatments, and styling products, giving formulators considerable flexibility. 

Its odourless, colourless, and preservative-free profile allows it to be incorporated easily into a wide range of hair-care formats.

Sign up to receive our email newsletters with the latest news updates and insights from Africa and the World HERE.